By George

The route through the Outeniqua Mountains signals the change from the dry Klein Karoo in the north to the lusher, misty, wetter region of the Garden Route. George is the gateway from this route and where we were to stay for the next week.

It is good to have a base, and even better when that base is at the home of family: Matthew’s brother, Emmett, his fiancé, Emma, and 17 month old toddler daughter, Ava, to be specific.

We arrived to a welcoming party. Long-time friends who had recently moved to that part of the land burst out of the garden cottage to greet us. Emmett had built the cottage to house his parents when they stayed in South Africa for three summer months. Leaving it open and unoccupied seemed like a waste so Amy and Lance were helping set up the place as an AirBnB. We were going to be the guinea pigs. We were tasked to stress test the accommodation.

“I expect you to be seriously honest about what works and what doesn’t,” demanded Amy, moving a pot plant out of the way.

We had been down last November for Ava’s first birthday. Then, we stayed in the main house. This time we would be separate but next-to. The cottage was very well appointed, beautifully decorated, light and airy. We felt very spoiled. [Editors note: shameless promotional content follows.] It’s a great place for your next George BnB needs.

So much had changed

Over the five months since we have last been down so much had changed: Ava was no longer a baby. She was taller, now walking and talking.

“How did you get so big so fast?” we asked her as she clung to her mum, not sure of who we were.

So much has also stayed the same. George is no longer a sleepy town full of retired folk but it’s by no means a bustling, busy space either. Thank heavens. The suburbs lie quiet and quaint. The town sprawls and then stops at the edge of fields, forests and the mountains.

This idyllic environment is what entices so many from up north to relocate. It feels settled and safe. To some extent it is.

We know several people who have, or are planning, to move down. Part of the purpose of our visit is to connect with these friends. We use George as a base and move to the other towns on the Garden Route to meet up with them and catch up.

The places are all within easy driving distance from George. It is best not to be too particular about getting anywhere by any specific time, though, because the roadworks could slow you down to a stop. And a wait. At any time.

We learned to check the GPS and pray. It made no difference, we were either lucky or not. Being down in this part of the world we are reminded to slow down and accept what is.

Slow days and Saturday markets

We spent a slow first day indoors, only popping out to get more Bummel shoes for Chantal and a few bowls from Wonki Ware. Friday was a part work day as Matthew had two coaching sessions and we had an online meeting to attend.

What would a Friday be without a relaxing end of week drink at a favourite haunt? Matthew loves craft beer and was “dragged off” to the local brewhouse. The Outeniqua Brewery, which is family run, only opened in December 2024. Matthew was thrilled with this new development. Some things do change in this town. He immediately made friends with the daughter, son-in-law and the parents and organised himself a crate of the different beers to bring back home.

The Saturday markets at Sedgefield are a must to visit. There are three separate markets housed next door to each other. The Wild Oats Farmers Market is the go-to place for organic produce and locally made eats and drinks. It is always our first stop for breakfast. We grabbed a coffee and a roasted veg sandwich and sat in the shade people-watching.

Later we meandered through the Mosaic Village and Outdoor Market and after a meet up with family and another cup of coffee at Slow Roasted coffee shop (a must visit) we sauntered through the Scarab Village market. We left with the most delicious loaves of rye and seeded sour dough bread, some interesting health bars, cheese and a few other treasures.

There are stalls that have been there for years. Every week the stall owners pitch up and sell their wares. People like us come back to get that specific scarf, belt, picture or hat that we saw months previously. It makes us feel as if we haven’t been away for that long. Some things stay the same in the most delightful way.

Catching up with friends

We felt the warm air when we went for a walk on Sunday morning. Pockets of warmth in shadows and shade? Couldn’t be the sun. It took us a while to realise that a berg wind was blowing hot weather in from the Karoo.

We made time to catch up with a special friend over Sunday brunch in the tiny town of Wilderness. On Monday we were in Knysna sipping cocktails on the St James Hotel verandah with another mate. The lagoon was ski-boat flat and the Heads a clear gateway to the ocean.

We popped to the top of Herold’s Bay to check in on a piece of property other friends of ours have purchased. We had to be escorted to see it by the estate agent. The farmer who was selling the land was not happy with just anybody swanning onto it. Sometimes the old habits of suspicion and need for privacy are hard to overcome.

Our friends’ piece of heaven stands with a sweeping view of the ocean on one side and the mountains on the other. We oohed, and aahed over the view.

“What a perfect day to sell properties,” remarked Chantal, looking at the open skies and azure sea.

“You interested?” the agent smiled, knowing full well that we were not.

The last two days of our stay were slips of summer in the autumn month. The skies stretched blue and clear, the sun shone hot. We basked in the unexpected glow. The weather does change and sometimes in a wonderful way.

Where our heart is

We get asked about moving down by many people we encounter when we visit the Garden Route. We can appreciate the pull that so many feel about this place. It is beautiful. But it’s not home.

Home is harsher and harder, with rough edges and peeling paint. The roads need fixing, the water system is in a flux, the city centre looks like a trash pit. Yes, there is crime and dirt and grime. It is also, ironically, the economic hub of the country.

For many the frustrations of living in Egoli, where not much shimmers and shines, wears them down. Nobody seems to care, so why should they? They leave for real greener pastures. Where they bring themselves.

Environment on its own cannot change a state of mind or a bank balance. It cannot shift depression or deal with fear. All of those things need to have been attended to before the move. Otherwise they just move with you.

We love to go on road trips. We love to visit family and friends in beautiful places in our, mostly beautiful, country. But we know where our heart is and that is where we come back to at the end of the journey. Home. As messy and noisy and chaotic as it is, it is home and where our heart is.

Until next time.

Yours in feeling,
Chantal & Matthew

P.S. If you’d like to see more images from the road trip, along with some etched interpretations of the beautiful sights, you’re welcome to follow us: Matthew’s Instagram & Chantal’s Instagram. 📷 🤳

Credits for this issue — Images: Midjourney & 5th Place